MACH 460 & 1000 Systems
Below you will find information on the Mach 460 and 1000 sound systems.
[Mach 460 and 1000 Overview] [Head Units] [Amps] [Speakers] [Mach 460 Schematics] [Mach 460 System Breakdown]
Mach 460
Since 1994 Ford has offered the Mach 460 audio system featuring a
three amplifier configuration, with a total of 460 watts, four woofers and four
midrange/tweeters. This package was offered with and without the single CD
player.
Mach 1000
As of 2002 Ford released an optional update to the Mach 460 sound system called
the Mach 1000 Audio System. The MACH 1000 system
delivers over 1000 watts peak audio power (570 watts continuous average power
{CAP} at 2% Total Harmonic Distortion {THD} into 4 ohms). The main portion of
the system is the same as the regular Mach 460 system. Three amplifiers, for a
total of 460 watts, power four woofers and four midrange/tweeters. Additional
power comes from two ten inch sealed subwoofer enclosures and four additional
subwoofer amplifiers. The subwoofers have dual voice coils wired in parallel,
This gives the system plenty of power and terrific bass frequency response; it
can easily handle frequencies below 20 Hz.
MACH 460 AM/FM Stereo Cassette Player = Made by Sony
Scan function (up/down)
Radio play during fast forward/rewind
Soft touch tape controls
Auto seek and station set
Auto DNR
Auto chromium oxide for tape
Auto scan on tape and tape storage
7.5" mounting depth
Single DIN size unit
MACH 460 CD Player = Made by Sony
Auto music search
Fast-forward
Compression
Shuffle and scan functions
Stores the disc when the radio is being played
7.5" mounting depth
Single DIN size unit
MACH 1000/CD6 6-Disc AM/FM Digital Signal Processing Radio = Made by Visteon
Random shuffle within CD or across CDs
Loads directly into the CD slot (no disc magazine required)
Direct access to CDs through presets
7.5" mounting depth
Double DIN size unit
Mach MP3 AM/FM Digital Signal Processing Radio = Made by Visteon
Mach
460:
Ford Hi/Mid-Pass Amp -
2x60w = 120w Max. 2x30w = 60w Nom.
Ford Mid/Low-Pass Amp
- 2x85w = 170w Max. 2x43.5w = 85w Nom.
230w / 13v = 17.7 amps Nom. 4 Ohms at 2% THD
460w / 13v = 35.4 amps Max. 4 Ohms at 2% THD
Mach
1000:
Ford Hi/Mid-Pass Amp -
2x60w = 120w Max. 2x30w = 60w Nom.
Ford Mid/Low-Pass Amp
- 2x85w = 170w Max. 2x43.5w = 85w Nom.
Visteon
MA185 Subwoofer Amp -
2x85w = 170w Max. 2x43.5w =
85w Nom.
570w / 13v = 36.5 amps Nom. 4 Ohms at 2% THD
1140w / 13v = 73 amps Max. 4 Ohms at 2% THD
Front Amp Mach 460 and 1000 = Located in dash console under radio/CD player. This amp powers the front and rear high frequency (Mid/Tweeters 2.5") speakers and sends the low frequency signal via a series fader to the rear amps.
Here are a few pictures of the front amp and location.
Rear Amps MACH 460 (x2) = Located in the trunk mounted on the sound board. One on each side of the car. The amps provide a mono bass signal to the mid/woofers. These two amps power the front and rear low frequency (Mid/Woofers 5.5"x7.5") speakers. If you own a convertible the amps are located behind the rear seat mounted to the rear wheel hump.
Left Amp Coupe
Right Amp Coupe
Rear Amps Convertible
Rear Amps MACH 1000 (x6) = The two Mid/Low amps are located in the trunk mounted on sound board on the under side of the rear deck. One on each side of the car. The amps provide a mono bass signal to the four mid/woofers. These two amps power the front and rear low frequency (Mid/Woofers 5.5"x7.5") speakers. If you own a convertible the amps are located behind the rear seat mounted to the rear wheel hump. The four Subwoofer amps are located on the MACH 1000 amp board located on the trunk floor against the rear seat. The four amps provide a mono bass signal to the dual voice coil 10" subwoofers located on each side of the trunk.
| Type of body | Front Speakers | Rear Speakers | ||
| High Frequency | Low Frequency | High Frequency | Low Frequency | |
| Coupe | 2.5" | 5.5" x 7.5" | 2.5" | 5.5" x 7.5" |
| Convertible | 2.5" | 5.5" x 7.5" | 2.5" | 5.25" |
| Type of body | Front Speakers | Rear Speakers | |||
| High/Mid Frequency | Mid/Low Frequency | High Frequency | Low Frequency | Low Frequency | |
| Coupe | 2.5" | 5.5" x 7.5" | 2.5" | 5.5" x 7.5" | 10" |
| Convertible | 2.5" | 5.5" x 7.5" | 2.5" | 5.25" | 10" |
Speaker Locations Mach 460
Front door speaker w/out panel
Rear speaker Convertible
Rear Speaker Grill Coupe
Rear Speakers Coupe
Rear Subwoofer Coupe/Convertible
MACH 460 TECHNICAL INFO SECTION:
The following schematics are for every sound system available for in the Mustang. These files are for reference only, they are not be distributed, sold.
Download the RadioDiagrams.zip file to a temporary folder and unzip. You will need a PDF file viewer to view the diagrams once unzipped.
Head Unit/CD Player Removal
To remove the radio and/or CD player you will need to purchase or fabricate the tools needed to release the locks holding the two units in place. There are three different methods I have used.
Take an old coat hanger and cut four lengths from it 4 inches long.
Take four Allen wrenches just small enough to fit in the lock holes around the two units.
Ford DIN tools. (U-shaped tool for removing the factory radio)
Instructions:
Slide the hangers/Allen wrenches/factory tools into the four holes
located around the outside of each of the units. You will feel a little resistance when
the tip of the tool
reaches the locks, push passed this point a 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. Do not insert the
tool more than a 1/4 inch past the resistance point, other wise the tool will prevent the locks from
releasing.
Once all four coat hangers are in place put an inward pressure on them towards the center of the unit and pull the unit outward. It's a little tricky so just keep working with it. Do not force either of the units out of the dash. You may break the housing around the two units if too much force is used. I usually pull out on one side at a time when removing the units. Be careful not to pull either side out to far. You only want to release the latches and then work on the other side. If you pull one side out to far you will never pop the other side loose. This is due to the pressure placed on the locks with the units angle.
Here you can see that I'm using Allen wrenches to pop the radio out. I found it easier to
remove the radio with the Allen wrenches because the width of the Allen wrench is bigger
than a coat hanger. If 4 Allen wrenches can't be found use coat hangers. The
Allen
wrenches I use are the same size as the holes I inserting them into. Too small of an
Allen
wrench and you will be fighting to get the units out.
High Frequency Driver Removal:
To remove the high frequency driver remove the pod grill by pulling it straight off. Pull by the grill area not the whole housing. It may take a little force but it will come off. I slide a screw driver in between the grill and the hosing and pull out. Once they have been removed, they are much easier to remove next time.
Tweeter Pod With cover
Tweeter Pod Without cover
Tweeter Removed
Tweeter grill
Door Panel Removal:
Tools:
Philips Screwdriver
Flat Head Screwdriver
Instructions:
Using a flat head screwdriver, pry off the trim around the door handle being careful not to break it.
Using a flat head screwdriver, pop the push in fastener from the leading edge of the door.
Using a flat head screwdriver, remove the trim panel housing the window and door lock controls by prying up on the panel. It should pop right up and off.
Be very careful removing this piece. Here I show a broken lock tab
on the arm rest.
Next use a Philips head screwdriver and unscrew the switches from the window and door lock trim panel.
Remove the two Philips head screws on the door panel and remove the door panel off while lifting up and outward. If the panel has never been removed before it may take some force to remove. Keep working it up and out.
Note: On the drivers side door the electric windows wire harness will need to be unplugged.
Installation is opposite removal
Rear Speaker Sound Board Removal:
(Coupe)
There are two ways to remove the sound board from your rear deck. I have supplied
directions for both below.
Tools:
Flat Head Screwdriver
12mm Nut Driver or Ratchet, Extension and Socket
T-15 Torx Head Driver
Instructions:
Version A:
Using a T-15 Torx headed driver or Allen wrench remove the two amps located on each corner of the sound board. There are four screws holding each amp!
There are five sunken holes around the center of the sound board. Using a nut driver, remove the four nuts located around the bottom center of the sound board. Note: The center hole has no bolt in it.
Next using the same but driver and while supporting the sound board, remove the two nuts located under the two amps you removed earlier. Note: Support the sound board while removing the last two nuts. Once these nuts are removed the sound board will drop to the trunk floor. Also as the sound board is dropping you will see two wires running into the top of the sound board. Unplug these before it drops to the floor. They will not reach and you may damage the plugs.
Sound board is out.
Version B:
Remove the three bolts holding the headrest portion of the rear seating
in. Then remove the headrest portion.
Pop out the two push fasteners out of the metal rear decking.
Bow the rear decking board in the middle to lift it out. While lifting up slide the board towards you. You may need to work the ends to get them to pop up and out of it's stock position.
Now you can see the tops of the speakers. Unplug the wires connecting to the speaker sound board. These wires are located on the top of the metal rear deck.
While supporting the sound board, remove the six nuts located on the rear metal deck. Note: Once the last nut is removed the deck will fall to the floor of the trunk. Support the sound board while removing the nuts.
Installation is opposite removal.
Rear Speaker Removal: (Convertible)
The convertible has two speaker enclosures in the rear. One on each side of the rear seating compartment. Below are steps to removing the side panels to gain access to the enclosures.
Lift up the rear seat a bit in the front. This will expose two white pins in the middle on both sides that hold the rear seat in place.
Press them in and pull the seat up and out.
The back top portion of the rear seat has two bolt on the bottom and a hanger on top. remove the bolts and pull the top rear seat out.
The side panels are held in place by the Christmas tree pull pins, remove the pins and carefully remove each side panel.
The Speaker enclosures will now be visible.