SUGGESTED UPGRADES

This is a list of suggested upgrades pertaining to the 85 Mustang GT. Most of the upgrades below were factory updates to the Mustang platform.

Factory Upgrades after 1985:

  1. The Clutch! The stock 85 clutch is a 10" assembly. In 87 this was upgraded to a 10.5" assembly. The larger the clutch surface the better holding power it will have.
  2. The Brakes! The stock front brake rotor size is 10". In 87 Ford upgraded this to 11" rotors which gave the Mustang a better pedal feel and better braking. 87 and up rotors can be used if the spindle, rotor, and brake caliper from a 87 to 93 is used as well. There are also several other front brake conversions around. Info on these installs can be found on all the major Mustang web sites.
  3. The Rear! The stock rear is a 7.5 unit. In 87 Ford upgraded this to an 8.8 rear. The 8.8 rear is much stronger and can take more abuse than the 7.5. The 7.5 year is prone to breakage on mild or high horsepower engines.

My Suggested Upgrades:

  1. The Carburetor! This replaced or it will need to be modified to gain additional performance. It is un-adjustable and comes preset for a factory motor. Any standard Holley 600cfm carburator will work. It is also possible to get the stock carburator reworked to provide better performance. Cost will be about the same as a new aftermarket unit.
  2. The Distributor! The stock distributors advance curve is set to run with a stock un-modified motor. The distributor does not need to be changed but will need to be modified if you plan on using it with a modified motor. Purchase an after market advance re-curve kit. I provided a How To on the main 85 How To page.
  3. The Heat Riser Valve! This doesn't have to be removed but I would definitely tie it open. If you have an annoying rattle on deceleration or on hard acceleration (I don't mean detonation) it is most likely the heat riser valve. Tieing this open will not hurt anything. The purpose of this equipment is to redirect the exhaust to the passenger side of the motor VIA the manifold for quicker warm ups. By directing it through the manifold the manifold will warm up with the exhaust temperature thus warming up the air entering the motor. If this is stuck closed your exhaust will try and flow through the manifold to the passenger side head to exit through the exhaust because of the restriction on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Basically choking the exhaust.
  4. Aluminum Trans Collar! This is a major problem of the T-5 transmissions. The main shaft collar is aluminum and wears out. If not caught in time this could seriously damage your trans. Rebuild kit usually come with a new steal retainer bearing or you can purchase one from any Ford parts dealer.
  5. Clutch Quadrant! The stock quadrant is plastic and after many miles is prone to strip off teeth. Replace this with an adjustable aluminum quadrant, new cable and/or a firewall mounted cable adjuster.
  6. Shifter! This is not a big necessity but many drivers miss gears because of the long throw Z patterned shifter. The 85 and up stock shifter is a shorter throw than earlier years but still carries the Z shifting pattern that causes the miss shifts.
  7. Distributor Advance Port! The stock vacuum advance port coming from the carburator routes through a temperature valve that switches the vacuum from the advance port on the carburator and the main vacuum port on your manifold. It is located in the back center of your manifold and has two wires coming from it. Bypass this! You will get a better advance condition not using the delayed vacuum port Ford provided. Run the hose from the front of the carburator straight to the vacuum advance port on your distributor. You can change this back at any time if your state emissions requires it.
  8. Lower Rear Control Arm! The lower Control arm has an egg shaped bushing in it. Most of the wheel hop that mustangs have is due to this bushing. Replace the lower control arms with newer ones without the egg shaped bushings.